The Lowdown on Ductless Heat Pumps

Ductless heat pumps generally deliver air from the indoor part of a heat pump to a space that is cooled without any means of a duct system. The ductless heat pumps are an energy resourceful system for any house. How will they work? Most of these units installed may have a duct system or else an air distribution system; ductless does not. It is just one that will hang on a wall and will deliver air from the indoor part straight to a space, which is cooled without any means of a duct system.

The ductless heat pumps give a unique answer to bringing central air conditioning into homes. By piping the refrigerant to individual coils in air handlers increased throughout a home, heat pumps do not need duct work for the central air conditioning.

The ductless systems combine flexibility of the room central air conditioners with cooling of the central systems. However, some systems give heating and cooling, ductless heat pumps are generally installed mainly for cooling.

In a conventional heat pump, a single indoor unit and single outdoor unit serve entire the house. The air is cooled at an evaporator coil and distributed all over the house through ductwork. In the ductless systems, you will find one outdoor unit that is serving multiple units. Refrigerant is also piped from the outdoor unit by small diameter refrigerant lines straight to the individual rooms and zones. The cooled air is then blown in the room by a fan in individual evaporator components. The term "mini" has been used to describe small indoor units situated in every room or area.

The ductless heat pumps are installed by using the conventional techniques for installation. Nevertheless, extra care should be taken to stop refrigeration leaks as well as to make sure of proper operating pressures. In addition, it takes two installers about a day to install a system having three zones. In addition, wiring for power and controls is simpler than with the conventional unit as wires are run along with refrigerant lines. The refrigerant lines from the outdoor units will span to one hundred feet to the indoor units.

Central Air Purifiers

We have all heard of central heating and most of us have heard of central air conditioning, but how about central air purifying? Indeed, is there such a thing? When you go to the mall or general department stores, you tend to see local air purifiers, that is air purifiers that clear the air in one room only. They are portable systems, so that you can watch TV with it on and then take it into your bedroom at night.

This is all right as far as it goes, but rooms are interconnected and the 'dirty' air soon comes in and mingles with your nice clean air. What you really need to do is clean all the air in the whole house, in every room simultaneously. This would be on the same principal as central air conditioning. In fact most central air conditioning systems incorporate an air purifying system. Admittedly, they are usually pretty basic on older conditioners, but they can be very sophisticated too, if you are willing to get a more expensive new conditioner.

The middle ground if you do not want to upgrade your central air conditioner or even if you do not want to air conditioning, is to fit a central or 'whole house' air purification system. This is most easily and most economically carried out if you already have ducting in your house for central heating or air conditioning. The central air purification unit is then simply put in line with your existing ducting.

The whole house air purifying apparatus is installed into a home's central HVAC (heat, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) system, just upstream from the air handler (the furnace or the air conditioner), similar to a central humidifier. This type of central installation enables CAP (Central Air Purification) systems to continuously remove allergens, pollutants and other irritants from the air being supplied to the entire occupied living space of the home, rather than just one room. installing the CAP unit like also keeps it completely out of sight and out of the way.

CAP systems can be fitted into virtually any type and configuration of forced air HVAC system, regardless of age, and are a common sense add-on or upgrade. Many of these systems incorporate a powerful ultraviolet light for added purification. This is called photo catalytic oxidation.

Photo catalytic oxidation has been proved to be highly effective at clearing airborne biological and chemical contamination (206% more powerful than chlorine and 157% more powerful than hydrogen peroxide. The energy field in the photo-catalytic chamber is roughly 10,000 times more powerful than natural sunlight).

These modern whole house or central air purifiers are extremely efficient and can give a new lease of life to sufferers of airborne allergies such as pollen. The system is relatively inexpensive, if you already have ducting in place, otherwise that could cost you an extra $3,000 - 4,000. The actual air purification units themselves are a lot cheaper, costing between $300 and $1,000 and the installer can fit them in minutes with common tools.

Selecting The Central Air Conditioning Your House Needs

Central air conditioning qualifies as the modern age's peak of indoor climate control luxury for the warmer months (or for permanently hot climates such as those found in the American Southwest or Australia's interior). At the touch of a button, you can send cool, refreshing air flooding almost silently into any room of your house, or the whole interior.

In short, you will remain cool and comfortable even if the heat and sunlight outside is enough to make the paint on your home's exterior blister and bring molten tar bubbling out of cracks in the driveway. However, most people who buy a central air conditioning system do so with little knowledge of properly scaling the equipment to their abode, and thus end up paying more than they need to for their summer relief.

Size matters with central air

Several different types of size need to be considered when you are having central air installed in your home, or if you are thinking of replacing an aging system that has served former homeowners (or you) well for many years. In the case of the system as a whole, you do not necessarily want the biggest that you can find. You want to install central air that is of optimum size, not maximum size.

Unless your home is a sprawling villa with fifteen rooms overlooking the hotter portions of Death Valley, you do not need the largest central air conditioner you can find. Consult closely with the installation professionals to get a system that meets your needs rather than exceeding them.

Not only are large systems superfluous and excessively costly, but they suffer from "overkill" - they cool the air so quickly that they shut on and off rapidly, over and over again, because of their thermostat readings in your rooms. This uses more electricity than a smaller unit that runs for a time, then shuts off for a time. Furthermore, this constant, rapid switching on and off will quickly wear out the mechanism, leading to maintenance problems and early, expensive replacement.

Fortunately, there are many high quality small and medium sized central air units on the market today, allowing you choose the one best fitted to efficiently cool your house with maximum comfort and minimum cost. The size of ducts also needs to be calculated properly for the volume of your rooms and their distance from the central unit.

Energy Star central air

The prudent purchaser of central air will not only consider how much cooling their house really needs and scale their purchase to that measure, but will also seek out Energy Star certified central air conditioners when possible. These models have been federally tested and use up to 30% less energy than their standard counterparts - giving you full comfort at a thrifty cost in terms of your power bill.

Keeping the Air Moist For Your Iguana

In reality, producing 80 percent or so humidity recommended for iguanas is nearly impossible. Most iguana keepers find that keeping the humidity up around 50 percent is difficult, especially when the central heating or air conditioning may be running during the winters or summers. The final kickers is that when the high humidity levels are attained, mildew may end up growing on the walls. When you have to choose between having fungal growths destroying the drywall or protecting your house by reducing the humidity level, protecting your house will usually wins.

To humidify the air in your iguana room, you can run a humidifier all day and night or just during the daytime hours. Another way to increase the humidity is to put a large pan or plastic tub of water in the warm side of the enclosure. The bigger the tub surface area, the higher the rate of evaporation. Some iguana soak in the water, which also helps humidify them. Because so many iguanas decide that the water tubs are a nice place to poop, make sure that you can easily get the tub in and out of the enclosure to clean and disinfect it as needed. Even though the tub or pan is filled with plain water, the container itself can get scummy after awhile, so periodically clean and disinfect it even if your iguana is not using it as his toiler bowl.

If you start seeing mildew growing on your walls, cut back the hours the humidifier is in operation. If you walls are white, you can apply a bleach water mixture to kill the fungus. If your walls are painted or covered, you can test various household mildew products in an inconspicuous place to find one that will not discolor the wall. Use these products when the iguanas is out of the room and give the room time to air out before returning him.

Using a spray bottle filled with water is one of the easiest ways to help keep your iguana humidified. Just set the nozzles to a broad, gentle spray mist, and spray. There is no need to add any vitamins or emollients to the water. The water itself does the job of helping increase the humidity right around the iguana. Spraying is especially nice when the iguana is shedding because it keeps the losing flaps of skin from drying out, making them shed off more easily. As the water droplets evaporates, they humidify the air the iguana breaths. You should spray several times a day during the daytime period, giving your iguana enough time to dry off before he goes to sleep.

If you have a bigger iguana or several iguanas or your hands get tired squeezing the spray trigger, at your local store you can find a heavy duty pressurized spray bottle. After pressurizing the bottle using the plunger handle at the top, you simply press the lock down bottom and then just hold the bottle while it emits a fine spray for a couple of minutes.

These are two ways you can humidify your iguana.

The Refrigeration Cycle

Refrigeration works by mechanically circulating refrigerant through a evaporation and condensation cycle. Low temperatures and pressures encourage evaporation, while condensation occurs in areas if high temperature and pressure. One side of the loop is inside an area of low temperature like a refrigerator, and one side is on the outside air. This two sided design of the loop allows the transfer of heat.

As a basic overview of the mechanics, as the low pressure liquid refrigerant expands at the evaporator inlet, it absorbs heat and evaporates into a low pressure gas. The compressor then pumps the gas through an accumulator which builds pressure for discharge into the condenser.

The accumulator protects the compressor from trying to pump solid or liquid freon. All Denver HVAC systems should come with an accumulator to protect air conditioning compressor life. Compressors are the most commonly ordered part by Denver air conditioning companies. Compressors are especially susceptible to varying load conditions and frequent compressor on/off cycling.

Condensers remove heat from the gas until it condenses back into a high pressure liquid. Some optional parts common in a Denver air conditioner are drain valves, heat exchangers, and liquid line valves.

The expansion device is between the condenser and evaporator. A liquid line strainer should be installed before this part to prevent problems from the buildup of dirt or moisture. The pressure between these valves is maintained by thermal expansion. As the refrigerant liquid is sucked into the evaporator, its pressure drops and the liquid absorbs heat as it expands and evaporates.

Once the desired interior temperature is reached, the thermostat sends a signal to the central air conditioning or refrigeration unit to shut down. The system turns back on when rising heat in the evaporator enlivens the circuit.

Return Air Grille and Floor Register

There are many resonant names in the field of air conditioning systems and accessories. Good names in air conditioning products are not only renowned for their quality, but also for their attractive designs. Whether we are talking about ceiling air grilles, wall grilles or floor grilles, there are many designs and different brands available in today's market.

Let the Good Air In

When it comes to ac registers, floor registers are among the most common picks. They are stylish, easy to install and they offer a good flow of the air. Hart & Cooley's 421 Series of floor registers are a good choice if you are looking for an attractive yet inexpensive floor register. It is available in white or brown and uses a stamped design, being ideal for house of office use. The 421 series also comes with an adjustable damper and a foot-operated control, allowing you to easily adjust the airflow. The 210 Series is the cherry on top of the cake when it comes to floor registers. It is a heavy-duty solution that is ideal for places with heavy traffic such as lobbies or pathways. The grilles are made up of solid steel and come in a Bright White or Golden Sand enamel finish.

The Bad Air Out

Getting rid of stale air is just as important in an air conditioning system as pumping in fresh air. Hart & Cooley comes with a solution to allow you to get rid of the bad air, the good way. The 673 return air grilles from Hart & Cooley have simple stamped designs and can accommodate 1" air filters. For this reason, these types of grilles are also known as filter back grilles. If you're looking for something more exquisite, you should consider the RHF45 air grilles, the successor of the 673. They come with an extruded aluminum construction and, unlike the 673s; they do not use a stamped design. The RHF45's can also accommodate a 1" air filter but keep in mind that the filter is not included in neither of the models.

Getting the Right Product

A very common mistake made by people who are looking to buy a return air grill or register is that they measure the outer dimensions instead of the inner dimensions. Always measure the dimensions of the ducts or the fitting holes, as those are the dimensions that matter. There are significant differences between the outer dimensions of a grille and the inner ones.

Modern Heating Methods Fall Back On Ancient Systems

The advances being made with central heating today actually find their roots back in ancient times. People would be surprised to know that Romans used central heat and were not the first. Heat systems have been around for a long time because they are so very important to humankind.

Mechanical engineering includes a subdivision called HVAC. This stands for a combination of services a business might offer, namely heating, ventilation as well air conditioning. Many business owners will chose to drop ventilation from their list of services but might offer refrigeration services instead.

One of the most popular ways to warm a public building or a private home is centralized heat. Using forced air and ductwork is great because during warmer weather the ductwork can also be used for central air conditioning. If water is being used to heat a building centrally, it will have piping instead of ducts.

While most people imagine a radiator when thinking of what heats their homes, in truth convection is the main method of how heat gets around a home and does its important work. Convection involves the transfer of a heated fluid via either its own natural buoyancy or a mechanical pump. The heated fluid is then moved around the home through some forced transfer system.

One of the benefits of central heat is that it warms up not just the floors but often the walls of a building. Evidence has been found as far north as Alaska and Asia of people using the smoke from their furnaces to heat their floors. Trenches were built into the stone floors of these homes, similar to the Roman practice of hypocausts. Hypocausts used a furnace to distribute heat through floors and walls in times long gone by.

It is a fact that Romans were not the first to use central heat in the more southern parts of the European world. Pakistan and other eastern countries used similar methods. Northern Africa, Western Asia and much of the Roman Empire relied on central heat. However, as the Romans began to fade from glory, so too did some of their greatest technological advances. Britain was without central heat until the early 1900s.

Central heating adds a certain luxury and feeling of indulgence to a new home when it's being designed. Despite how advanced it might seem, it's also one of the best choices. Many people are unaware of how their venting systems work with other heat methods. The vents that are placed in the coldest parts of a house are actually trying to warm up the condensation filled air that forms near glass. People often redirect this heat away from windows, defeating the vent's purpose.

A critical home building consideration, heating is very important to take seriously. It matters less that it's radiant heat or true convection, and more that it is a centralized system. The Romans knew what they were doing in this aspect and it's important to look to the ancients many times when considering modern technology.

Learn How Upselling Techniques Can Double Your Business Profits Literally Overnight

Upselling? You would often hear about this in entrepreneurship seminars or from your business coaches or textbooks.

But by this I don't mean 'bait and switch tactics' - telling them a low price and then hitting them with a much higher price when you get there. By upselling I mean selling your clients more stuff.

Don't think of upselling as a way to squeeze more money out of your clients. Only add services that provide value and improve the quality of your clients system.

For example, your client needs a new furnace. You could just stop there but think of all the other improvements you could make. Maybe the first upsell would be a more efficient furnace. Next, a programmable thermostat to provide your client even more energy savings. Or maybe an electronic air cleaner or a humidifier.

All of these products add comfort and improve the air quality. Maybe new ductwork is in order to improve air flow to certain rooms. While we're at it, it could be the best time to also replace the central air conditioner. How about a ground source heat pump? The list just goes on and on.

Another upsell would be an annual service contract or perhaps an annual duct cleaning if you offer that service. Never use scare tactics to upsell such as without a CO detector you could die from carbon monoxide poisoning. But be sure the client knows all the advantages of the upsell products.

Overwhelm them with the benefits of the additional services and products you offer. Give them tons and tons of proof. It is usually better to have too much than not enough. Educate your clients and they'll usually make the best decision. Following this section is an example of a letter that can be used to upsell various products. This particular letter is for electronic air cleaners but the style could be adopted for other products too.

Preferably, mail a letter like the one that follows with something you are already mailing to your Clients. This way your postage is minimal to none and all the sales are profits. This letter will sell electronic air cleaners. Plus, after receiving it many people will call for other services you offer. It may generate as much other business as it does electronic air cleaners. It is easy to do a similar type letter for programmable thermostats or similar products.

The sample letter for an upsell that I talked about earlier, would be in Part 2 of this article series.

Ductless Split Air Conditioners - Easy Installation

Ductless split air conditioners are a great investment for many homeowners, and handy people who are familiar with electrical work can often do this type of renovation on their own. This is sometimes a difficult task though, so if you are not familiar with plumbing or electrical work you may want to hire a professional contractor to take care of this installation for you. Even if you are handy, you need to consider that they are very difficult to size and maintain, and if you make a mistake while installing ductless split air conditioners on your own, you may have to hire a professional to fix your mistakes anyway.

If you have made the decision to install ductless split air conditioners on your own, here are the simple steps that you will take to get your unit up and working in good order fairly simply and easily.

First and foremost, you will need to lay a pad on the ground of the home close to where you are going to do the installation. Then you will make sure the ground where it is laying is level, and then put the air conditioners condenser piece on top of that pad. Next, you will have to drill a hole through the home for the line of refrigerant to go through to the basement of your house. You are able to use a hole saw drill to do this. Make sure not to make the hole to large, but just large enough to get the wires and hoses through to the other side which often resides in a basement (or sometimes on the exterior of the home).

Next, you will want to stuff the line through the hole that you have created to get the hose to go through to your basement. You will need to open a space in the wall where you want the inside unit to go. The refrigerant line will have to be run from the condenser unit up to the room where the unit will be located. You will also need to run a drain line in to the room where the unit will be, this is typically a PVC drainage line. You will next make sure you bring the electrical cables and wires that carry the electricity from the condenser into the room where your air conditioner will be. This is a tricky part and is best handled by a licensed electrician. It can be very dangerous for someone who is not a professional to attempt this part of the installation.

Next, you want to check for the recommended height that was included in the information when you purchased the unit. These types of air conditioners typically reside up on a wall, so make sure you measure the proper height for where it will sit. You will hang your air conditioner on a metal bracket that you will want to install at the height recommended in the paperwork.

Lastly, you have to connect the refrigerant line the PVC drain piping and electrical wires. Again, this is best to be done by someone who is a licensed electrician to avoid possible injury. You will then put the cover on the unit to cover the interior. Ductless split air conditioners can be an easy install for someone with a background in plumbing or electrical skills, but otherwise, it is best to leave this to a professional to make sure it is installed properly and free of injury.

101 Easy Ways to Save Energy

All it takes is a few minutes each month, and you'll notice a difference - and make a difference!

Getting started

1. Do a home energy audit. This survey analyzes your home's structure, appliances and insulation. Home Inspections offers customers a comprehensive thermal imaging survey that provides a personalized report detailing specific ways to save energy throughout your home.

Heating your home

2. Change or clean your furnace filter once a month. Dust and dirt can quickly clog vital parts, making your furnace run harder and eventually break down.

3. Have your heating system inspected regularly - especially if it's natural gas. A $50-100 annual tune-up can help reduce your heating costs by up to five percent.

4. If you have a forced-air furnace, do NOT close heat registers in unused rooms. Your furnace is designed to heat a specific square footage of space and can't sense a register is closed - it will continue working at the same pace. In addition, the cold air from unheated rooms can escape into the rest of the house, reducing the effectiveness of all your insulating and weatherizing.

5. Install a programmable thermostat. If you use it to set back the temperature by 10 degrees for eight hours every night, you'll lower your heating bills by 10 percent. A $50 digital thermostat can pay for itself in energy savings in less than a year.

6. Don't set the thermostat higher than you actually want it. It won't heat your home any faster, and it will keep your furnace running longer than necessary.

7. Vacuum registers and vents regularly, and don't let furniture and draperies block the air flow. Inexpensive plastic deflectors can direct air under tables and chairs.

8. If your home has a boiler system, avoid covering radiators with screens or blocking them with furniture. It's also a good idea to add a reflecting panel behind radiators - you can purchase one at a home center or make one yourself with a plywood panel and aluminum foil.

9. If your home has electric baseboard heating, be sure to keep furniture and draperies away from the heaters, and leave at least a three-inch clearance under the heating unit.

10. Keep curtains and blinds closed at night to keep cold air out, but open them during the day to let the sun warm the room.

11. Avoid using space heaters, including electric, kerosene or propane models. Not only are they expensive to operate, they're also very dangerous.

12. If you have hardwood or tile floors, add area rugs to keep your feet warm.

13. If you'll be going on vacation, lower the thermostat to 55 degrees. This will save energy while preventing water pipes from freezing.

14. If you have a wood-burning fireplace, have the chimney cleaned and inspected regularly, and burn only fully dried hardwoods to produce the most heat output.

15. Check the seal on the damper by closing it off and holding a piece of tissue paper inside the firebox. If drafts blow the tissue around, repair or replace the damper.

16. When using the fireplace, turn down the furnace to 55 degrees. If you don't, all the warm air from the furnace will go right up the chimney, wasting energy and money.

17. Add fireproof caulk where the chimney meets the wall, inside and outside.

18. When the fireplace is not in use, make sure fireplace dampers are sealed tight, and keep the glass doors closed. If you never use your fireplace, plug the chimney with fiberglass insulation and seal the doors with silicone caulk.

Insulating your home

19. Check insulation levels throughout your house. Measure attic insulation with a ruler, and check behind switch plates for sidewall insulation.

20. Install more attic insulation. Upgrading from three inches to 12 inches can cut heating costs by 20 percent, and cooling costs by 10 percent.

21. Add pieces of batt insulation or spray foam to the rim joists - the area along the top of the foundation where it meets the exterior walls.

22. If your basement is unheated, install blanket insulation in between exposed floor joists.

23. Choose the new "no-itch" or poly-wrapped insulation products. They're much easier to handle and safer to work with - making them worth the extra cost.

24. Install additional attic insulation at right angles to the previous layer. You don't have to use the same type of insulation - it's fine to use batts or blankets over loose-fill, or vice versa.

25. When using loose-fill, be sure to distribute the insulation evenly. Any inconsistencies can reduce the insulating value.

26. While shopping for insulation, remember that R-value measures the amount of thermal resistance. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation.

27. Never cover attic vents or recessed light fixtures with insulation, and allow a three-inch clearance around chimneys and flue pipes to prevent overheating and avoid the risk of fire.

28. Have a leaky roof repaired and make sure your basement is waterproofed. Wet insulation is worthless.

29. Maintain your central air conditioner by cleaning the outside compressor with a garden hose (be sure to shut off power at the fuse or breaker first). Keep plantings at least two foot away for adequate airflow.

30. During late afternoon and early evening, turn off unnecessary lights and wait to use heat-producing appliances. It's also a good idea to shade south- and west- facing windows during the hottest part of the day.

31. Plant a tree. One well-placed shade tree can reduce your cooling costs by 25 percent. For maximum benefit, place leafy shade trees to the south and west, and evergreens to the north.

32. Use ceiling fans to help circulate air throughout the house, and make sure your attic is properly ventilated. A ceiling fan should run clockwise during the summer, and counter-clockwise during the winter.

33. Set the fan on your central air conditioner to "on" rather than "auto." This will circulate air continuously, keeping the temperature more even throughout the house and aiding in dehumidification.

34. Make sure your window air conditioner is the proper size. It's better to get one that's too small than too large - a larger unit will start up and turn off more frequently and won't do as good a job dehumidifying the air.

35. Don't judge the efficiency of your air conditioner by the sound of the fan shutting on and off. The blower will continue to circulate cooled air throughout your home up to 15 minutes after the compressor has stopped. (The same holds true for the furnace.)

36. Raise the thermostat to about 78 to 80 degrees whenever you go to bed or leave the house. A programmable thermostat will do this for you automatically.

37. If your home can't accommodate central air conditioning, try a whole-house attic fan. This device pushes hot air out through attic vents, lowering the temperature throughout your home about five degrees in less than ten minutes. Attic fans cost less than 25 cents per day to operate.

38. During the winter, remove window air conditioners and seal the windows with caulk and weatherstripping. You might also want to cover the central air compressor with a tarp to keep it clean.

Weatherizing your home

39. Seal doors and windows with caulk, weatherstripping and plastic film. An investment of $50 in weatherizing supplies can reduce heating costs by two to three times that much. Don't forget the basement windows!

40. Add foam gaskets behind all outlet covers and switch plates, and use safety plugs in all unused outlets. These are prime places for outside air to leak into your home. Be sure to shut off power at the fuse box or circuit panel first.

41. Check the exterior of your home for air leaks, especially around openings for water spigots, air conditioner hoses, dryer vents and gas pipes. Use caulk or expanding foam to seal spaces.

42. If your home has a large, single-pane picture window, use heavy draperies during the winter to help hold back cold air.

43. Reflective window film can help reduce heat gain during the summer, and it will keep furniture and carpets from fading.

44. Check window panes to see if they need new glazing. If the glass is loose, replace the putty holding the pane in place. Most types of window glazing require painting for a proper seal.

45. If drafts sneak in under exterior doors, replace the threshold. If that's not practical, block the drafts with a rolled-up towel or blanket.

46. Seal the edges of unused doors and windows with rope caulk. Don't seal them shut permanently - you might need quick ventilation or escape during an emergency.

47. Choose the right kind of caulk for the job. Use latex or acrylic caulk inside - it's easy to clean and more forgiving if you're a beginner. Silicone caulk is great for outside use because it lasts longer and seals virtually any type of surface.

48. Don't forget to weatherize the attic access. Secure batt insulation to the back of the hatch or door, and use weatherstripping to seal the opening.

Water Heating

49. Set the water heater temperature at 120 degrees - about halfway between low and medium. This will help save energy and prevent scalding, while keeping unhealthy bacteria from growing.

50. Install a water-saving showerhead. Don't worry - it won't reduce your water pressure. A family of four, each taking a five-minute shower a day, can save $250 a year in water heating costs by switching to a low-flow showerhead.

51. Fix leaky faucets, especially if it's a hot water faucet. One drop per second can add up to 165 gallons a month - that's more than one person uses in two weeks.

52. Use aerators on kitchen and bathroom sink faucets. If you have hard water, clean aerators and showerheads with vinegar regularly to reduce deposits and build-up.

53. Take showers, not baths. A five-minute shower will use about 7.5 gallons of hot water, while filling a bathtub can use up to 20 gallons.

54. If your water heater is more than 15 years old, install an insulating wrap to reduce "standby" heat loss. It's also a good idea to insulate hot water pipes where they're accessible.

In the kitchen

55. Use smaller kitchen appliances whenever possible. Microwaves, toaster ovens and slow-cookers can use 75 percent less energy than a large electric oven.

56. Vacuum the refrigerator coils about twice a year to keep the compressor running efficiently.

57. As your mother always told you, don't leave the refrigerator door open. Every time it's opened, up to 30 percent of the cooled air can escape. The same rule holds for the oven, too.

58. Keep the refrigerator temperature about 36-38 degrees, and the freezer at 0-5 degrees.

59. Don't overload the refrigerator or freezer. The cold air needs to circulate freely to keep foods at the proper temperature.

60. Make sure the refrigerator is level, so the door automatically swings shut instead of open. If the floor isn't level, use shims to prop up the front of the refrigerator.

61. Don't worry about placing hot leftovers in the refrigerator. It won't affect energy use significantly, and cooling food to room temperature first can increase the chance of food-borne illnesses.

62. Check the seal on your refrigerator door by closing it on a dollar bill. If you can pull the bill out easily, it's time to replace the gaskets. You can purchase a replacement kit from an appliance dealer or a home center.

63. Use your oven's self-cleaning feature immediately after cooking, while the oven is still hot. This will reduce a lengthy warm-up time.

64. Use lids on pots and pans to reduce cooking times, and don't put a small pan on a large burner.

65. Keep the grease plates under range burners clean to reflect heat more efficiently.

66. Run the dishwasher only with full loads, and use the air-dry cycle. If your dishwasher has a "booster" water heater, use it; this will heat the water to the 140 degrees recommended by manufacturers, while maintaining an energy-saving 120 degrees on your primary water heater.

67. Wash only full loads of clothes, and be sure to set the water level appropriately.

68. Use hot water only for very dirty loads, and always use cold water for the rinse cycle.

69. Clean the lint screen on the dryer every time you use the machine. A clogged lint screen can make your dryer use up to 30 percent more energy - and it can be a fire hazard.

70. Remove clothes from the dryer while they're still damp and hang them up. This will save energy, prevent static and reduce wrinkles and shrinkage.

71. Dry one load of clothes immediately after another. This will minimize heat loss, reducing warm-up and drying times.

Lighting your home

72. Switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs. These bulbs use 75 percent less energy than typical incandescents, and they last 10 times longer.

73. Look for a compact fluorescent wattage that's about one-third of the incandescent wattage you usually use.

74. Use lighting control devices like dimmers, motion detectors, occupancy sensors, photocells and timers to provide light only when you need it.

75. Keep lamps away from thermostats; the heat produced can cause your furnace to run less than needed or your air conditioner more than needed.

76. Dust light fixtures regularly. A heavy coat of dust can block up to 50 percent of the light output.

77. Use only a single bulb in a multi-socket fixture. Be sure to check the maximum wattage the fixture allows.

78. Replace an incandescent outdoor light or high-intensity floodlight with a high-pressure sodium fixture. The bulbs will last longer, use less energy, and handle temperature extremes better.

79. Use low-voltage lighting kits to light walkways, patios and decks. The soft light will also attract fewer annoying insects.

80. Decorate with pale colors on walls, ceilings and floors. Soft tones reflect more light, so you can use lower wattage bulbs and delay turning on lights until later in the day. Using high-gloss paint can help as well.

81. Read light bulb packages carefully. Watts measure the amount of energy needed; lumens measure how much light a bulb produces. Energy-saving bulbs produce more lumens per watt of electricity used.

82. Get rid of spare refrigerators or freezers. An extra appliance can add more than $100 to your energy bills every year, and it's a safety hazard for small children.

83. Keep outdoor hot tubs covered when not in use. If you have a pool, use a solar cover to use the natural warmth of the sun to heat the water.

84. Keep waterbeds covered with quilts or blankets to help retain their heat. You might also want to insulate the bottom with a sheet of rigid foam insulation.

85. Keep the garage door closed, especially during the winter.

86. If you need a new lawn mower, consider an electric model. They're less expensive to operate (about three cents of electricity per use), 75 percent quieter, and they significantly reduce toxic emissions.

87. Instead of air-polluting and expensive charcoal or propane, try an electric or natural gas grill. They're more economical and more convenient - you'll never run out of fuel.

88. Unplug any electrical device that's not being used. Many appliances, especially computers, televisions and VCRs draw power even when turned off.

89. Place humidifiers and dehumidifiers away from walls and bulky furniture. These appliances work best when air circulates freely around them. Be sure to clean the unit often to prevent unhealthy mold and bacteria from developing.

90. If your home has no sidewall insulation, place heavy furniture like bookshelves, armoires and sofas along exterior walls, and use decorative quilts as wall hangings. This will help block cold air.

91. When you take a vacation, don't forget to give your appliances a rest too. Turn off and unplug everything you can, set your water heater to the lowest setting and shut off the water supply to the dishwasher and washing machine.

Buying new appliances

92. Remember that it pays to invest in energy efficiency. In some cases, the money you save in energy costs can pay back the purchase price in just a few years.

93. Always read the Energy Guide label carefully, and make sure you're comparing "apples to apples." Energy use can range significantly even within a single brand.

94. Choose the capacity that's right for your family. Whether it's a furnace or a refrigerator, it doesn't pay to purchase a unit that's too large or too small.

95. In almost every case, a natural gas appliance is more economical to use than an electric model. The $50-75 price difference can be paid back in energy savings in less than a year.

96. Replace inefficient appliances - even if they're still working. An aging water heater or refrigerator could be costing you much more than you think. If your central air conditioner is more than 10 years old, replacing it with a high-efficiency new unit will cut your summer electric bills by about one-third.

97. Shop during the off-season. Many heating and cooling manufacturers offer significant rebates during seasonal sales promotions, and dealers may charge less for installation.

98. Investigate new technology carefully. Some innovations, like convection ovens or argon-filled windows, may save energy and make life more convenient; others, such as commercial-grade kitchen appliances, might be merely expensive cosmetic enhancements.

99. Look for the "EnergyStar" logo. This designation from the Environmental Protection Agency means that the appliance exceeds minimum federal energy- use standards, usually by a significant amount.

100. Don't forget to ask about warranties, service contracts, and delivery and installation costs.

101. Be sure to choose a reputable and knowledgeable dealer. A good dealer should be able to help you calculate energy savings and the payback period, and he or she should offer you a range of brands and prices.

Is Your Environment Making You Sick?

It's that time of year when warmer weather returns and so do my patients with a whole host of symptoms and illnesses associated with their living environment! These can include allergic reactions to plants or to chemicals we come in contact with on a regular basis. I even see patients with upper respiratory illnesses caused by their air conditioners and dehumidifiers!

Environmental illnesses send hundreds of people to their doctors or emergency rooms every spring and summer with mild to severe allergic reactions to something in their daily living environment. Let me share with you some of the most common exposures in our immediate environments that tend to bring patients in with itchy skin rashes, upper respiratory distress, stomach upsets and headaches as well as what you can do to treat and/or prevent them.

Plant Allergen Reactions

I can't tell you how many patients I see every spring and summer with a case of the "itchies", a skin rash caused by handling flowers, grass, or weeds on their property. Usually the rash appears on their lower legs, arms, or face. This type of reaction is called contact dermatitis and can range from mild to severe with slight redness to severely inflamed skin that is badly itching, and fluid-oozing often seen with poison ivy or oak. If you've ever had a plant reaction such as this, you know how miserable and uncomfortable it can be.

What To Do:

If you are wheezing, feeling tightness in your throat, having trouble breathing along with a skin reaction, please get to a doctor or walk-in clinic immediately, as you could have a severe systemic allergy to the offending plant.

In the case of poison ivy or oak, if the reaction is severe with weeping blisters and intense itching, your doctor can give you a prescription steroid to stop the immediate reaction and lessen its course from the usual 2-3 weeks down to 2-3 days. If the reaction is milder, you may want to treat it yourself by taking a lukewarm soap shower to help open the blisters that form so the itch-causing fluid can drain. Applying refrigerated witch hazel mixed with a few drops of lavender oil will help dry out these oozing lesions and lessen the itching. This mixture also works well for the itching associated with mosquito or chigger bites.

Many plant allergies respond to cleaning the areas with witch hazel and applying Calamine lotion. Taking 1 tsp of Benadryl liquid will help with the itching and/or swelling.

It's important to find out what caused the reaction as often times the second exposure can bring on a worse reaction. You will likely need to visit an allergist who can perform skin testing to common plants, grasses and weeds. Wear long cotton pants and socks, long sleeves and gloves while gardening or removing brush or weeds. Be careful not to rub your face while working as this transfers the offending agent to your facial skin.

If your cat or dog likes to lay in your garden or around weeds or ivy climbing up walls, wipe them down with a moistened baby wipe or pet wipe to get any plant oils off their fur which can be transferred to you by rubbing against you or jumping up on couches or beds.

Chemical Reactions

Spring and summer brings out the bug sprays, lawn fertilizers, pool chemicals, house paints, cleaning solvents like bleach and ammonia, construction adhesives, epoxy, etc. These agents contain strong chemicals like DEET, VOC's (volatile organic compounds), urethanes, chlorine, and, often, toluene that need to be used with good safety precautions. Exposure to these chemicals can give you mild to severe symptoms ranging from crashing headaches, upset stomach, skin rash, heart palpitations, and upper respiratory reactions, depending on the level of exposure to them. Follow the directions on the containers and wear gloves and/or a respiratory mask in a well-ventilated area when applying.

Chemicals that go into pools, hot tubs, and outdoor water parks, like chlorine and other bactericides/fungicides can cause serious reactions like upper respiratory (wheezing, coughing), to skin rashes, nausea, vomiting, headaches, heart palpitations. Even gasoline we use in our lawnmowers, motorcycles, and go carts, can give us a bad headache, especially on a hot day as the vapors from the compounds in these products intensify.

What To Do:

If you're wheezing and/or short of breath, vomiting, or have a pounding headache, dizziness, rapid heart beat after exposure to insecticides, pool chemicals, paint/cleaning solvents, adhesives, please get to a doctor immediately. Symptoms like these indicate a severe reaction and you need medical attention.

If your symptoms are milder, such as only skin irritation, and you are not in any immediate respiratory or other distress:

1. Take a cool shower with a mild soap and remove the chemical from your skin.
2. Rinse out your nasal sinuses with an aloe/saline spray.
3. Rinse your mouth with some warm water (don't swallow, spit it out).
4. Rinse your eyes out with saline solution (same used for contact lens cleaning).
5. Drink several glasses of water with some lemon juice in it to help your liver more quickly process the chemical out of your body.

Air Conditioner/Dehumidifier Illnesses

As soon as we start turning on the AC and dehumidifiers is when I start seeing patients with upper respiratory conditions. Bacteria and mold spores which have been forming in AC window boxes, or dirty AC venting systems, blow bugs into the ambient air that people breathe and lodge in their sinuses and airways. Before long they can have an acute infection of the sinuses, sore throat, bronchitis and sometimes even pneumonia!

What To Do:

Keep window AC boxes tilted slightly backwards so any condensation that is in them has a chance to drain out at the end of their season. Keep the box covered tightly over the fall and winter so rain, leaves, snow, doesn't have a chance to get down inside and grow bacteria and mold. Make sure filter screens are kept clean wipe down the screens and surrounding areas with an antibacterial cleaner, and spray the air vents with a good antibacterial household spray such as Lysol.

Keep central AC venting systems clean with regular vent cleanings. Be sure to change/clean any ceiling intake screens with an antibacterial cleaner.

Dehumidifiers - make sure you empty the water they collect on a regular basis and wipe collecting pan clean so it doesn't have a chance to grow mold spores.

Aloe/saline nasal sprays can help wash out mold spores and bacteria from your nasal passages before they cause infections. These can be used safely a few times a day.

Sick House Syndrome

This situation can occur in any season, but happens most prominently in the late spring/early summer, especially if the weather has been very humid and/or rainy. Dangerous black mold can grow on dark basement walls, bathroom showers, wood paneling and fiber ceiling tiles and give off mold spores into your environment.

Similarly, dust (and their mites) can build up in a house. You breathe in these mold spores and dust mites and serious upper respiratory infections can ensue as well as neurologic disorders, chronic fatigue, aching joints, depression. These are some of the common aspects of sick house syndrome which affects many Americans and people around the world. Others include off-gassing of formaldehyde from materials like fiberboard in your home or radon gas emitted by your furnace.

What To Do:

Good housekeeping practices of dusting and general cleaning go a long way to prevent the type of illnesses that come with sick house syndrome. Use bleach (wear gloves and face mask), or bleach alternatives like lemon juice, to remove black mold wherever it grows in your house.

Replace mold infected wood paneling and fiber ceiling tiles as it thrives on wood and paper-derived building materials. Run a dehumidifier in the basement to dry out any moisture. Make sure there are no leaking pipes or windows, any possible way moisture could develop in the basement. Put a few daylight lamps in dark areas and run them for a few hours to discourage mold growth. Have your house inspected for mold even if you don't see it anywhere, yet have the above-mentioned symptoms.

There you have just a brief overview of some of the most common environmental agents that can cause chronic and acute reactions and illnesses. They can be hard to overcome and deal with since they are part of your everyday activities in the environment around you. However, with a little common sense and preventative measures you can stay reaction-free from your environment and get back to enjoying the spring and summer!

Why Do My Lights Dim?

I'm asked this question a lot in the summertime. Quite often in the summer, when your central air conditioner kicks on , you may experience lights dimming in your home.

This happens because of a condition called "inrush". When a motor is running, it consumes a rated amount of current. And it's generally constant, unless the load of the machine it's driving changes.

Now when a motor starts up, particularly under a load, it draws inrush current. This current can spike as high as three to six times normal running current. Since current and voltage are inversely related, a spike in current will cause a drop in voltage. This voltage drop is why you're seeing your lights dim. The voltage drop should only last momentarily however. If it lasts for a couple seconds or longer, you may have other conditions present.

Those conditions can be any of the list below:

* Main Electrical Service heavily loaded.

* Main Electrical Service undersized for the electrical loads in your home.

* Main Electrical Service entrance conductors too small, or too long.

* Loose connections on conductors for the main, or conductors for the A/C branch circuit.

* Utility company transformer near or at capacity.

* Utility company secondary conductors too long.

* Incoming voltage too low at service entrance.

* A/C unit itself drawing too much current because it's old, inefficient, mechanically worn, weak or bad capacitor.

Some of these conditions will need to be checked by you, the homeowner. Others will need to be checked by the utility company. If you are in doubt, call a professional electrician to evaluate. If your system gets a clean bill of health, it's time to call the power company.

The Average Cost of Electric Everything

If you have ever wondered what the average cost of electric devices are in your home, here's some insight. Electric rates vary around the world. So, for this article's purpose we will use the average U.S. rate of eleven cents per kilowatt-hour.

Cooling: Generally, air conditioners require more electricity than anything else - 16% of total electricity used. In warmer areas, AC can be 60-70% of your summer electric bill. A window AC unit consumes 500 to 1440 watts, while a 2.5-ton central AC system uses about 3500 watts. That is a lot of energy. Translated into dollars, a window unit running 24 hours per day costs an average of $78 per month. Compare that to the central AC system, which costs about $282 per month.

Heating: The most efficient and inexpensive way to heat your home with electricity is to use radiant heater. Radiant heat solutions include devices like ceiling panels, space heaters, wall panels and radiators and allow you heat only the space you occupy.

Central heat or forced-air is more costly because it heats more than just the room you are currently using. The system works by sucking air into a furnace, warming it up, and then propelling it back into the rooms through registers in the ceiling or floors. The average cost of electric heat from a central system is about $644 per month, if it is running it 24 hours per day.

Lighting: The easiest money saver with lighting is to change all your bulbs to compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). As soon as you screw them in, you save 70% on energy. CFLs last ten times longer than incandescent bulbs. Let's say you have 15 bulbs in your house. If you have the lights on for about 4 hours per day, your 75-watt incandescent bulbs cost about $16 per month. CFLs cost about $4 per month. Over 12 months, you would save about $150 on your average cost of electric lighting.

Refrigerators: The second biggest household energy user is the refrigerator. You can't save money by turning your fridge off when you are not using it. The best way to save money on the refrigerator is to make sure you have an efficient one. New refrigerators aren't just a little more efficient, they are exponentially more efficient.

For instance, an old 1976-1986 fridge uses 1400 kWh per year, for a total of $112 annually. The average cost of electric fridges manufactured post-2001 consumes 500 kWh per year, for a grand total of $40 per year.

Washing Machines: A washing machine uses about 0.256 kWh per load. At the US average of 11¢/kWh, that's $0.03 per load for electricity. Once you add the cost of water and the cost of heating the water for hot or warm loads (a hot load on an electric water heater can cost about $0.50 per load) it gets pricey.

Clothes Dryers: Pretty straightforward. The average cost of electric dryers is about $0.36 per load.

Water Heaters: When choosing a water heater, you have a choice between tank and tankless. An electric tank water heater will cost you about $48 per month. The average cost of electric tankless water heaters will cost about $37 per month. When powered by gas, the tankless water heater has a serious advantage over all the others.

Central Heating Advances - From Rome to the 21st Century

The ancient Romans figured out how to keep their homes toasty warm long before Benjamin Franklin flew his kite and we got busy inventing ways to harness electricity for our comfort.

Roman architects designed a central heating system called a hypocaust. The word, hypocaustum means "heat from below." The raised floors were held up by short pillars and spaces beneath them and inside the walls were heated with the hot smoke and air from the fire chamber. Walls were fitted with ceramic box-shaped tiles that served as flues to channel the burned air and smoke to the outside, as well as to warm them. The more warmth needed, the closer to the hypocausts they were located.

It was a pretty expensive and labor-intensive method, so hypocausts were reserved for public baths and upper class villas. In about 25 B.C. Sergius Orata figured out how to cut down on the overhead by putting the male and female bathing rooms close to the hypocausts and right next door to each other.

Korean traditional architecture uses an Ondol. This underfloor heating method depends on direct heat transfer from a wood fire maintained underneath a thick floor made of masonry. From the central firebox or stove area, usually accessible from the kitchen or master bedroom, a system of horizontal channels spider out underneath the structure. A chimney on the opposite side of the building from the firebox ensures a decent draft system.

One of the Korean twists is that while traditional masonry is used for the channels and to support the thick floor, they added an additional layer of something impervious to smoke and fumes, such as layers of stone slabs, clay and oil paper. The system works well and is in used today in many of their buildings, notably in an orphanage.

When American missionaries discovered small children sleeping on pallets and babies sleeping in boxes on the floor, they went to great lengths to obtain thousands of cribs. Even after their arrival, the well-meaning folks were baffled to find the children were still sleeping on pallets and babies were still in boxes on the floor. Only after considerable questioning did they figure out that it was the best way to keep the little ones warm since the floors were warmed in the traditional manner.

Today's furnaces and forced air ventilation systems provide the latest in safe, efficient central heating. Filters ensure that pollutants from the outside are kept at a minimum and the closed heat production part of the system either confines or eliminates any potentially toxic substances.

We've come a long way, but the level of comfort we enjoy today stands on the shoulders of some pretty smart cookies who lived a very long time ago.

Can a Tune-Up on My A/C Really Save Me Money?

Just like with maintenance on your cars, regular maintenance of your a/c unit will help your system last longer, it will keep your system running more efficiently and it will continue to keep your power bills lower. More household energy is used to cool your home than is used for anything else. Anything you can do to help continue the efficiency of your system, will benefit you when the power bill comes each month. The best time to get you're a/c unit tuned up is early spring and can be done as late as mid to late spring. The idea is to make sure the tune up is completed before the hot weather comes and you need to start running the system on a regular basis. Many people will be having their systems readied for the summer months, so be sure to schedule your tune up in enough time to get it done before the temperatures start rising. Another benefit to getting your a/c unit tuned up is that it will keep your system from having to have a lot of costly repairs. Preventative maintenance is always cheaper than having to fix problems that occur when a system isn't taken care of properly. When you maintain your a/c, you will also extend its life rather than having to replace it after 5-10 years. A well maintained unit can last 15 years or longer.

You can expect the following to be done during you're a/c tune up:

• Cleaning and/or replacing necessary filters.


• Checking the hoses for cracks or wear in the material and replacing if necessary


• Make sure fluid levels are all where they should be and top off if necessary


• Lubricate any moving parts that need to be


• Check the airflow blower and makes sure all is working well


• Check the condensate drain


• Clean the coils if they need it

Even something as simple as a dirty filter can cause problems with your a/c unit. This is an easy replacement, and makes a big difference in the way your air conditioner works. A dirty filter can cause the coils of the system to freeze up. If that happens, the system then just stops blowing cool air and does no good to be on. Keeping the filters changed regularly, and the area around the a/c unit free of dust, keeps the system much cleaner. If you live in a hotter climate, you will undoubtedly use your a/c unit more often, so getting a tune up about every 6 months or so will keep it in good running condition. Having it checked regularly like this will also help identify any problems the a/c unit might have before they become huge repair issues.

The most significant way regular tune ups save you money is to lower your power bills. You can save as much as 3-10% on your power bills by having a good running system that is maintained and kept in good condition. It may not sound like much savings, but anyone who has had an air conditioner run rough due to not being clean can definitely see the results on their skyrocketing power bills that can result. When you combine a well maintained air conditioner, keep the a/c out of the sunlight to avoid it having to work harder, and add weatherization such as making sure the windows are properly sealed, having proper insulation, and sealing the duct work, you have the basis for having a comfortably cool home all throughout the hot season, and can also save money which every one of us wants to do in this economy.

Tips Before Buying Air Conditioning Parts

Recent news has stated that the revival of the real estate sector, after the whiplash of the economic recession, has initiated an upsurge in the sale of air conditioning systems and quite obviously, air conditioning parts as well. And rising in parallel to these demands is the number of dealers offering central air conditioning parts, both online as well as offline. This has again resulted in a vast number of options and avenues opening up, making it easier for the potential consumer to make his choice - keeping elements like budget, requirements, energy efficiency patterns et al in the fray.

Listed below are some quick tips to help you tweak your interest in air conditioning parts into a worthwhile investment:

Actual requirements - Many of us make the mistake of buying a white elephant instead of an AC! No, not in the literal sense but yes, we do buy air conditioning parts that are either not suited for the main machine installed or are outdated. While they may still be used, quality of service and longevity of the AC unit itself will be compromised to a large degree later on.

Efficiency ratings - Check for the efficiency ratings of the central air conditioning system before you buy the same. The same rule applies while buying central air conditioner parts, as efficiency ratings can be a worthwhile indicator of their superiority over the rest in the industry.

Professional assistance - While buying AC parts, make sure you solicit assistance from the experts from inside the industry. This is especially crucial as ad-hoc installation of parts may do more damage than good to a central air conditioning unit.

Authenticity of dealer - Check for the authenticity of the dealer, irrespective of whether he is present online or offline. This can be done by looking up the required authoritarian stamps on their products, official efficiency ratings and reviews from possible referrals and previous clients of the same dealer.

Other criteria - Technical details like the longevity of the heat exchanger, the strength of the compressor coil, noise levels et al should be checked thoroughly before you make the final buy.

Careful research and caution can keep your investment in central air conditioner parts within the positive side of the demarcation of a wise buy and a waste of an investment!

http://www.Airconditioning-Filter.com can be a great online portal to refer to in this case, especially if you are looking for the best place and the best ways to buy central air conditioner parts online or offline!

Is Central Air Conditioning Right For You?

All of us are experiencing the result of the environmental abuse. This is why we suffer from the excruciating heat of the sun. Thanks to the man made wonders, like air conditioning systems, we are able to stay comfortable. You have to pick the right air conditioning system though, to maximize its use. Many want to have a central air conditioning system. However, there are different considerations to be made.

The first thing you need to check is the structure of your home. If you plan to install a central AC, you have to make sure that there are ducts or vents where the air can freely travel to cool the entire area of your home. You also have to find the best place to install the AC so that it will not affect the architectural design of the house.

You should also check the heat exposure of your home. Some home are more exposed to the sun than the others. You have to study the temperature in your area, to decide if the central AC is indeed the best for your home. This can also be affected by where your house is facing and the amount of shade it is getting from the trees around your home.

You should also consider the type of home you have. If it is located in a historic district, consult your building department. You will be required to acquire permits before you install anything in the house. You should be careful not to damage or alter the look of the property. It is best that you have your property evaluated by an AC technician to check if a central AC is right for you.

Choosing the right AC for you:

You have to understand that there are two different types of AC system. One is the unit system, which is a box installed on the window. This only cools one room. This is best for studio, apartments and small homes.

The other one is the central AC. As mentioned earlier, this cooling system cools the entire house using vents.

This is preferred for bigger homes as it distributes cool air effectively. It does not create a lot of noise too. It is also energy efficient. There is also central AC that pumps out warm air during the winter.

Before you purchase a central AC, ask a pro to make the necessary calculations to your home. He will consider the size of your property as well as the number of rooms. These are necessary to determine the cooling power of the device you will get.

Inquire about the moisture performance of the device as well. This affects your comfort level. The device should be effective in removing moisture in the room. Check the SEER ratings as well or the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The rating of most new units is 13 or more while older units have 7.

Central AC is a great choice. However, you have to check your property first before deciding to purchase one.

A Home Inspector Checks the Electrical System

When a home inspector looks over the home you're either buying or selling, one of the crucial items he'll examine is the electrical system. In other words, how's the wiring? Are there any fire hazards the must be fixed immediately?

One of the first things to understand about a home is its requirements for amps and volts. The more amps you have in a home, the more electrical devices you can have in use at any given time. The typical standard is 100 amps, though some say 200 amps are necessary for all the electrical gadgets we use these days. Large homes, and homes with central air-conditioning or electric heat will need more power. Think of a tunnel. A two lane tunnel lets through twice as many cars as a one lane tunnel.

Volts determines the types of electrically powered devices that can be used. For example, lights, small power tools, small kitchen appliances, bathroom appliances, small room air-conditioners, etc. utilize 110 volt power. In the case of electrically heated homes, electric ranges, large room air-conditioners, central air-conditioning, large power tools, clothes dryers, etc. 220 volts are required. In our illustration of tunnels, higher voltage capacity is like a tunnel that can accommodate trucks, not just cars.

Power must be distributed evenly throughout the home. If a home has more electrical circuits, there's less of a chance of blowing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker. A home with 14 circuits can accommodate more than one with seven. Thinking of tunnels again, the more tunnels there are available to accommodate traffic, the less chance that a traffic jam will occur.

Your home inspector will look outside for what he can find out about the electrical service. Are there any frayed or damaged wires? Frayed insulation could mean there is water damage in the main panel in the house. Some rust on the pipe or meter pan isn't usually a big problem because it occurs with weathering.

Your inspector will walk around the outside of the house and make sure there are no exposed open wires. Any outside receptacles should be GFI protected.

There are several things your inspector will take note of inside the home. Are there 3 prong grounded receptacles? Are there GFI receptacles in the kitchen and bathrooms? Your inspector can test to see that they work. Are there any burn marks on receptacle or switch plates? Is there rust on the main service panel?

Are all device plates installed straight and tight to the walls? Are light bulbs installed in all fixtures and all in working condition? Do telephone and cable jacks work? Does the doorbell work?

What's the condition of visible wires? He'll take a look in the attic and basement for this as well. Are there any uncovered junction boxes?

Your inspector will check for aluminum wiring by removing a few receptacle and switch plates. Aluminum wiring poses serious dangers. It can be the cause of flickering lights and intermittent operation of devices or appliances. If this is happening, a licensed electrician must be called. Shut the power off to affected areas if at all possible. Be sure the home has working smoke detectors. Replacing aluminum wiring can be a large expense, but replacing the home is an even bigger one.

Your inspector should check the water main and see that the service ground is in good condition.

He'll try all switches and receptacles to see that they work. He may turn on as many lights in the house as he can. He may then turn on an air conditioner or large appliance like an electric stove to see if the lights dim or brighten. If so there may be a loose neutral or ground connection.

It's important to check the main breaker. Are electrical panels labeled properly? Does the home have adequate amps and voltage? If the service needs to be replaced or upgraded it makes little sense to put anything less than 200 Amps in.

Here's a simple way to check for loose connections. Turn on all the lights and walk around the home, banging a fist on and near switches and outlets with two sharp raps. If there's a loose connection, this should reveal it. Finding a problem like this could prevent an electrical fire. Loose connections equal heat in an electrical circuit.

When checking light bulbs and fixtures, your inspector may note whether bulbs are a higher wattage than what is specified for the fixture. If they are chances that the wiring in the fixture is damaged from the excessive heat, it should be replaced.

If the home is occupied or has recently been lived in, it's crucial that extension cords are not under carpets or rugs. It's important to replace frayed or worn extension cords and replace broken or damaged plugs on appliances.

Your inspector will look for overall quality of the electrical work in the home. If a licensed electrician installed the work, things will be done neatly and properly. Work done by a homeowner or handyman generally will be evident by how the work looks.

Remember, your home inspector will report to you on the condition of the home. Knowing the status of the electrical system is important as you decide whether to buy or sell the home in question.

What Does HVAC Mean And What Does It Entail?

You may refer to it as "H-V-A-C", many refer to it as "H-VAC", but what exactly is it and what does it mean? HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. It is the industry in which indoor temperatures and environments are regulated through mechanical means to provide optimal comfort conditions. Regulating indoor environments includes regulating temperature, humidity, and air exchange.

HVAC's principles are derived from thermodynamics, fluid mechanics, and heat transfer theory, and its origins go back to the industrial revolution, but some can even argue that HVAC dates back to ancient Roman times when some buildings were constructed with water cooling systems. Just as in the ancient times, we still use "systems" to manage indoor climates.

We refer to the term "systems" because there are numerous functions that go into a complete HVAC setup. It is typically not a singular system that works together, though that is the assumption. Rather, it is a complex web of engineering that allows different pieces of mechanics to work together.

For example, houses that have central heating usually derive their heat from a boiler or a furnace. This boiler/furnace comprises of water, steam, or air that is distributed throughout the household to elevate temperatures. These systems are elaborate and consist of ductwork and piping/radiators.

There are cases where systems can work together, and of course, there are scenarios where they cannot. Water and steam heating systems work separately from central air conditioning, but sometimes forced air systems can use the same ductwork for air distribution as the central air conditioning system does. Though they'll probably run on two separate sources of energy (i.e. gas for heat and electricity for air conditioning), they appear to be one cohesive "system".

Ventilation is defined as the process of "changing" or replacing air in a structure to provide high indoor air quality. Some aspects of ventilation include temperature control, oxygen replenishment, or the removal of moisture, odors, smoke, heat, dust, airborne bacteria, and carbon dioxide. The exchange can occur with air from within said structure or from the outside environment.

There are two types of ventilation: forced/mechanical and natural. Forced/mechanical ventilation systems require a fan to operate as they remove humidity, contaminants, and odors by "exchanging" and replacing with outside air. Natural ventilation occurs when there are open access areas to the outside which allows the natural outside air to flow freely into the structure. While natural ventilation can seem like the more "cost effective" route to go with, this may not be the case in hotter climates.

By understanding the different elements of HVAC, clients can be more educated as to what services are covered by an HVAC specialist. This knowledge will allow them to make educated choices when it comes to engineering and installing, as well as maintaining, an HVAC system.

Central Air Conditioners: The Good and the Bad

The best thing about central air conditioners is that they can keep your whole house cool, unlike single room conditioners that only provide selective relief. People who live in homes that have experienced more comfortable temperatures throughout every room rather than just in one or two rooms.

Central air works by using a condenser, fan, coil and various ducts. The condenser is usually situated outside or in the attic to keep it out of the way. Air is brought into the fan and coil system, properly cooled and then redistributed into the house at a pleasing temperature via the duct systems.

Because central brings cooler temperatures to the entire house, a duct system in good condition is essential. Usually central air conditioners use the ductwork that is already set up for the furnace. In cases where there is no existing ductwork, a brand new system has to be installed for central air to be effective.

Though useful in many situations, the main downside of it is that initial installation can be costly. When an existing house is upgraded to central air conditioning, the condenser and other air conditioning is often put in the attic since a specific place for it wasn't originally built into the house.

The new ductwork that is required if you don't already have furnace ducts is where you are liable to run into high price tags. The ductwork has to be installed brand new because it wasn't part of the original house plan. Since most often ducts go through the floor, this installation can create quite a mess throughout the house and cost a pretty penny, too.

If this is what your house needs to increase your comfort, there are plenty of upsides to this more expensive but higher quality cooling system. For instance, once installed a central air unit doesn't need any maintenance! Plus, no maintenance means you won't run into upkeep costs down the road.

This can be programmed to meet your specific temperature desire. This customization can help you save big bucks on your utility bill. In fact, in some situations, central air conditioning can actually save you money, even including the cost of installation.

Before you decide whether or not to install this, it is a good idea to check with a contractor. He or she will be able to create a heating plan based on the specifics of your home. This will give you the information you need to decide whether it is your best choice.

Central air conditioners are used in both residential and commercial buildings to provide a building wide relief to hot summer weather. They make it easy to keep your electricity bill low and your living space cool.